Meet Crash!

Crashlanding

It is day two with our new puppy, Crash.  We made the drive up to get him in Red Bluff yesterday.  There was some whimpering and a lot of naps on the way home.  He is no fan of being by himself, but otherwise he seems to be settling in well.  James Brown is largely disinterested in Crash.  Crash, on the other hand, is fascinated with James’ tail – and biting it.  James is not thrilled about that game (as you can see in the video link below).

He is very curious and increasingly bold as he discovers his new home.  We have high hopes as he seems a very clever fellow who has a natural instinct to fetch and is content to sit serenely and observe his surroundings (that mode not featured in the video link).

There will be more photos and video to come.  We are excited to welcome Crash into our family and into our home!

Chez Panisse

Alice Waters’ Restaurant in Berkeley has been on my list for some time, so I am excited to finally broadcast this review.  Last month my parents celebrated their wedding anniversary and happened to be in town for the occasion.  Michael and I had the pleasure of accompanying them to Chez Panisse to fête the event.  It was a lovely meal in good company.

Apértif of Proseco and Plum Purée

Antipasto of shaved zucchini with prosciutto and ricotta toast

2008 Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir

Albacore tuna with capers, olives,
anchovy, roasted peppers and orecchiette

1999 Chateauneuf-du Pape, La Crau, Télégraphe

Grilled Cattail Creek Ranch lamb with
chanterelle mushrooms, wild fennel and fresh flageolet beans

Nectarine and blackberry millefoglie with zabaglione

Chez Panisse has built its reputation – and a groundswell of support for the domestic Slow Food movement – on its use of the freshest local protein and produce prepared with honesty and a devotion to the ingredients themselves.  Some might call this kind of preparation “simplistic” or “unadorned,” which it is, but it is also a great way to get reacquainted with how basic good food should taste.  You won’t find any of the complicated, time-consuming preparations or techniques you’re likely to encounter at other fine dining establishments, but that doesn’t mean you’ll come away wanting.  The evident care and effort dedicated to sourcing the best quality local ingredients is where the restaurant focuses its attentions, while the kitchen does its utmost to preserve the native, natural flavors that blossom on the plate as a result.

The downstairs restaurant (as opposed to the café dining option available upstairs) has a warm, coppery patina with a low ceiling and a wide view of the rustic kitchen and its open fire spit and grill.  The service was spot-on and the wine list featured many quirky boutique options from local California vintners as well as a fair selection of Old World wines in half bottles and by the glass.  All of the courses demonstrated the pure, bright flavors of their component pieces and, while they were not sophisticated, they combined to create a pleasant evocation of summer.  I cannot tell a lie – the tuna in my orecchiette was overcooked; possibly the result of resting a little too long under the salamander, but I found this misstep more surprising than distracting.  The lamb was perfectly cooked and well matched with the mushrooms, fennel and beans.  It was fantastic with the Chateauneuf-du-Pape (for which, I admit, I have a weakness).

We are quite spoiled in the Bay Area for good food and great restaurants, which we owe in no small measure to pioneering chefs like Ms. Waters who care about the food they serve and are staunchly dedicated to doing it in a responsible and sustainable way.  What Chez Panisse lacks in technical pizzazz, it makes up for with refreshing simplicity and honest flavors.  I look forward to going back.

Cyrus

It’s been a while since the last post, but I have to say I think it was worth the wait.  Michael and I dined at Cyrus in Healdsburg last night along with two charming dinner companions visiting from Boulder, Colorado.  You know the drill.  Full menu followed by commentary.  Enjoy!  We certainly did!

Those are some happy campers!

~ Cyrus ~

May 17, 2009

Champagne & Caviar
California Select, Farm Raised White Sturgeon with Traditional Accoutrements
Chateau Jean Vesselle “But Rosé – Oeil de Perdrix”, Bouzy, France
~
Canapés
Five Flavors
Salty – Sous Vide Cucumber
Sweet – Guava Mouse with Mint Gelée
Bitter – Grilled Grapefruit
Sour – Sudachi Marshmallow
Umami – Shitake and Sushi Rice Fritter
Vin Gris de Pinot Noir
~
Amuse Bouche
Kampachi Sashimi with Ocean Vegetables
~
Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, Mango
and Hearts of Palm
Riesling, Dönnhoff “Grosses Gewächs Dellchen”, Nahe, Germany 2007
~
Foie Gras Torchon with Tamarind and Dates
Grasberg, Marcel Deiss, Alsace, France 2002
~
Soft Shell Crab with Corn and Scallions, Sauce Billi-Bi
Chardonnay, Rouchiou “River Block”, Russian River Valley 2007
~
Duck Breast with Bok Choy and Asparagus, Sesame- Shao Xing Sauce
Pinot Noir, Littorai “The Haven”, Sonoma Coast 2006
~
Wagyu Beef with Burdock and Shiso, Oxtail Umeshu Consommé
Sagrantino di Montefalco, Paulo Bea “Pagliaro”, Umbria, Italy 2004
~
Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses
Kapcsándy Family Winery “State Lane Vineyard”, Napa Valley 2005
~
Verjus Sorbet, Blood Orange Riesling Soup with Crystallized Picholine Olives
Riesling Spätlese, Robert Weil “Kiedricher Graferberg”, Rheingau, Germany 2006
~
Strawberry Rhubarb Bread Pudding
~
Mignardises
House-made chocolates and candy

Yesterday was a scorcher in the Bay Area and wine country was no exception.  We arrived 20 minutes in advance of our reservation and were promptly shown to a table in the bar to refresh ourselves before dinner.  The Cyrus bar serves a traditional mint julep – crushed ice, frosted silver julep cup and all – and, while I did not partake, it did appear to be particularly thirst quenching on a hot spring night.  The ambiance of the restaurant is refined – as one would expect – but relaxed enough to put one at ease.  Patrons used their normal speaking voices and chuckled to each other without the keen sense of being overheard that sometimes accompanies these fine dining experiences.  A welcome relief.  The more wine I drink, the harder it is to whisper.

The décor is simple, but luxe.  Columns of bone-white lilies atop rigid stems four feet tall were stationed at strategic intervals around the main dining room which was otherwise a calming combination of gold and ivory.  Textured white china and Laguiole knives.  Tables are placed at a comfortable distance from each other – close enough to feel sociable, but far enough apart to feel airy.  The staff was friendly, accommodating and jocular, which is crucial as the wine list is a tome and boasts many hard-to-find and limited release offerings about which our servers had much to say.  I had only a limited sampling of the wine pairings on offer.  None were outstanding, but all were good.  In addition to their standard pairings, the restaurant offers a “Grand” pairing of dinstinguished treasures.  I will certainly have the “Grand” the next time around.

The food was very, very good.  The lobster course was the best executed overall in my opinion, though the soft shell crab was a favorite of the table.  The foie with tamarind reduction and dates was served with miniature oven-warm naan.  Warm bread is always a good bet (even on a hot night).  The wagyu beef was more marbling than meat and a rare treat for that reason.  My favorite dessert component was the plank of picholine olive brittle propped against the verjus sorbet – perfectly crisp, salty and sweet and with just enough give in the flecks of olive to keep it from cracking apart.

Chef Douglas Keane just won the 2009 James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef in the Pacific region.  He is one to watch.  I like that his tasting menus are at most seven courses.  I also celebrate the fact that you can have an entirely vegetarian tasting menu.  I wasn’t brave enough to try it this time out, but I would  be very tempted to go veggie on the next round - particularly in spring.  Diners also have the option of a less daunting five course alternative.  Part of me felt a little disappointed that we only had the two “meat” courses, but most of me was relieved not to relive the labored breathing and “food sweats” that so often follow a 10 or 12 course meal.  I think seven courses is just right.  I was sated after the meal, but not uncomfortably so.  Happily, you’ll also notice that fewer courses translates to lighter bill at the end of the evening. 

It was a meal to remember and, for those of you keeping score at home, on food alone I’d rate it above Tetsuya’s but below The French Laundry.  That said, we got a booking without any trouble at all and it didn’t require a transoceanic voyage, so if you’re after a truly special meal without a lot of fuss and within driving distance, Cyrus has what you’re looking for.

More at http://cyrusrestaurant.com/

Buttons Are Scary

Spooky as Hell

This is my recommendation for “Coraline,” the 3-D stop-motion animated quasi-kids’ movie directed by Henry Selick, whom you may remember from “The Nightmare Before Christmas.”  Firstly, I am now wondering why more movies aren’t in 3-D, as in all of them.  Secondly, who knew buttons could be so scary?  (As if I needed something else to add to that list.)  The real thrust of this film is the visual effect of the dark and dream-like fantasy world conjured by young Coraline’s imagination.  It is half Dr. Seuss and half “Pan’s Labyrinth” embroidered with delicious details that jump right off the screen.  If you miss it in the theater, I predict you won’t be wowed by the at-home version.  Also, the Buddy Holly-framed 3-D glasses make a nifty souvenir.

I wouldn’t put this movie squarely within any “children’s movie” designation; it includes some grown-up themes and narrow-escape situations that young children might not appreciate (unless they already spend a lot of time feeling marginalized and fantasizing about replacing their parents with upgraded facsimiles who have buttons-for-eyes).  Coraline is a little girl largely neglected by her work-weary parents who, in exploring the sprawling Victorian manse that has now become her home, discovers a secret door leading to – you guessed it – a fairytale.  Of course, as with all things, this fairytale is flimsy and masks some deeply unseemly conduct by a domineering matriarch in the making.  Coraline’s supporting characters in this adventure vary from the anthropomorphic to the scantily-clad and each contributes significantly if not necessarily meaningfully.

The movie is an eye-full of rich detail and impressive animation. So much for Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride.  There is a new show in town.

I recommend you see it and start planning your Coraline Halloween costume now.

So Long and Thanks for All the Fish

Michael and I will be leaving Australia in a few days to return to the Bay Area, which prompted me to reflect upon the many unique experiences and valuable lessons derived from my time here in Sydney.  Foremost among them are the following, many of which I will dearly miss and always remember fondly.

 

Centennial Park – Sydney does great parks and Centennial Park is an especially fine and sprawling specimen.  Many of my favorite days in Australia were spent on the bank of a quiet little pond on the outskirts of the city with a book or a game of Scrabble while James splashed around after ducks and chased the ball.  Always a crowd pleaser on a sunny day.

http://www.centennialparklands.com.au/

 

Danks Street Depot – A perennial favorite and the one Sydney restaurant that I wish I could take with me when I go.  This place never fails to satisfy.  The freshest produce and best quality ingredients prepared with integrity and imagination.  I especially enjoy their Bar Food Nights featuring themed menus once a month on Thursdays.  Their Mexican Bar Food Night was a triumph and provided – hands down – the best Mexican food I’ve had in Australia.  I’m picking the head chef, Jared Ingersoll, as one to watch.  If he doesn’t end up with a signature line of sustainably-grown, responsibly-hewn and beautifully-crafted wooden salad bowls and nubby, organic cotton kitchen towels, I will be shocked.

http://www.danksstreetdepot.com.au/

 

Cafe Sopra (Fratelli Fresh) – Just across the street from Danks Street Depot in Waterloo, this rustic but refined first floor eatery with a massive menu written by hand on an impressively scaled black board is the perfect place to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon lunch.  Sadly, for the moment the Waterloo location is only open on Saturdays, but the new Potts Point version is a good second bet.  As mentioned, the menu is just dizzying in dimension – ranging from a light but aromatic osso buco in bianco with gnochetti and gremolata to a rich and satisfying crockery-baked smoked chicken farfalle with whole grain mustard and leeks.  Fantastically coy little salads – cavalo nero, shaved brussel sprouts, and crisp prosciutto mounded beneath a poached egg dressed with aged balsamic and peppery olive oil – are also on offer alongside more traditional antipasto features.  I prefer the atmosphere of the Waterloo spot for dining – it affords more elbow-room and has better ambient light – but the Potts Point destination has a better grocery set-up which is very attractive for the multi-tasking dining/shopping option it presents.  This place is not to be missed.

http://www.smh.com.au/news/restaurant-reviews/sopra-at-fratelli-fresh/2005/11/11/1131578221002.html

 

Pasta Emilia – I am now thoroughly spoiled for pasta having had this exceptional boutique shopfront just up the street from our place in Bronte providing handmade fresh pasta and fabulous sauces.  Anna-maria, the proprietor, is a wonderfully warm personality with an infectious smile.  She makes all the pasta and sauces herself and I have found she is always ready with serving suggestions and recipes to augment her flawless creations.  My personal favorites include the duck and porcini ravioli with truffle cream sauce and her pre-made lasagne with béchamel and bolognese (just put it in the oven – what’s not to love!).  She also hosts dinners (often in conjunction with Hudson Produce) to commemorate traditional festas of Northern Italy – do yourself a favor and get on that mailing list.

http://www.emilia.com.au/

 

Hudson Produce – Hugh Wennerbom, slow food wrangler and providor, is a force to be reckoned with.  On his farm, he raises much of the fruit, veg and meat he delivers to discerning restaurants and private clients in the know.  By happy accident, our apartment is located just above Hudson Produce HQ, which I have to think is the only reason we have even an inkling of these hand-crafted and home-grown treasures.  Based on what I can gather from my self-guided neighbourhood watch (I am a culinary stalker in the making!), Hugh spends much of the week on the farm trellising broad beans and coddling piglets before heading back to the Eastern suburbs heavy with his bounty.  The operation appears to be manageably sized – private distribution is driven by circulation of a weekly email with gallows-humor and tongue-in-cheek descriptions of the latest hiccups on the farm along with romantic photos of this week’s culinary features (faces and all!).  We’ve enjoyed wonderful Taralga Farms jam, pork sausages, fresh fish, farm-reared beef, and wonderful La Barre olive oil.  As though that weren’t enough, Hugh is also a retired chef and hosts periodic dinners using his excellent raw materials at a funky diner location in Chippendale – they always go over a treat.  If I were to judge, I’d say Hudson Produce is poised to quickly outgrow its banks and it will be interesting to see how Hugh manages to do more on the farm while developing the distribution side; although, in fairness, both Hugh and his lovely, unflappable wife, Mary Ellen, have ambition and ability to spare.  If anyone could increase the scale of this business without a skip in their stride, it’s them.  Remarkably, there isn’t a website to send you to, but if you’re truly interested, you can leave me a note and I’ll see what I can do.

 

Work/Life Balance – The best lesson I’ve learned in Australia is to insist upon and fiercely defend an appropriate work/life balance.  Coming from the Bay Area, I used to think that work/life balance meant eating at least once a day and not sleeping on the floor of your office.  The Aussies seem to understand that your work should not define you.  Now to see if that’s an import I can get past US Customs.

 

Bronte & Clovelly Beaches – I can’t pretend we’ve had the best beach weather while we’ve been here (judging by the foregoing, the weather has, however, been ideal for stuffing our faces!), but on those rare days when the sun shone bright, it was a special treat to be able to lather on the SPF +400 and walk down to the beach from our little apartment.  James Brown in particular will miss his walks down to the cliff-side park for ball chasing with a postcard-ready backdrop of the ocean.  He may not appreciate the view, but I certainly do.

 

Fare thee well Australia and many thanks to the locals and ex-patriots alike who did so much to make me feel welcome while I was here.  A special thanks to Madeleine, Sterling and George, who rented us our apartment in Bronte; they have been a wonderful source of information on all things Aussie and have demonstrated remarkable patience in dealing with us “yanks.”  Thanks also to Hugh, Mary Ellen, Henry, Adelaide, and Winnie for suffering our proximity with grace and humour (and an affectionate ear-tousle to Nelly, their dog, who just never could trust that we didn’t have some nefarious plot in the works).

Becasse Degustation

Michael and I had dinner at Becasse last night – degustation menu with wine pairings.  Menu and commentary below.

Canape
(puff pastry coin, olive tapenade, tomato confit, marscapone cream)

Salad of baby beetroot ad Hindmarsh goat cheese with mulled wine gel and hazelnut crostini
2007 Stefano Lubiana “Alfresco” Reisling, Granton

Confit yellowfin tuna and king prawns with green apple and lemongrass sorbet, soy and sesame
2007 Laurenz V Singing, Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal

Seared swordfish and squid with fennel puree, lemon verbena, fennel and olive vinaigrette
2007 Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

Terrine du pays Basque with sherry gel, smoked apple preserve and crisp jamon ficelle
2006 Paradigm Hill Pinot Noir, Morington Peninsula

Roast hiramasa kingfish with aubergine puree, crisp cannellone of mushrooms, turnips
2005 Poderi Colla, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Piemonte

Roast loin of Kurobuta pork with stuffed trotter, confit celeriac and Savoy cabbage, olive oil potatoe puree and Modena jus
2006 Olivier Jullien, Les Etats D’ame du Mas Jullien. Languedoc

Honey panna cotta with rockmelon and lavender granita

Citrus baba au rhum with Honey Murcott mandarin, basil ice cream
2007 Mt. Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling, Clare Valley

Highlights include the roast hiramasu kingfish and Kurobuta pork, though the wines were the real stars of the show in my view.  I loved each of the first 4 wines and the Languedoc Shiraz-Grenache.  Despite my continued efforts, I have yet to find a dessert wine to really wow me, but if I never find one it won’t be for lack of trying.

Michael and I agree Tetsuya’s is certainly better food, but the food at Becasse was undeniably good and the wines were, at times, even better.  Also, it’s nice not to have to make a booking months in advance.

Giving Thanks for the Danks

Danks Street Depot is my new favorite place in Sydney.  I love it there.  I recognize this will not be of tremendous utility to those of you who are not, say, living on this continent; but if you’re ever in Sydney and looking for a great, casual place to have a meal, I cannot recommend Danks Street Depot highly enough.  We have been for brunch every weekend for three weeks running and I am only growing more and more enamoured of the place.

 

The exterior of the restaurant is an unassuming blank concrete.  If you didn’t know to come here, you could easily pass it by.  The interior has high ceilings and large windows with views out to the street, which afford plenty of daylight – perfect for leisurely perusal of your periodical of choice.  The decor is warm and inviting and the chairs are real chairs, not the flimsy plastic scoops that are so prevalent (and such a deterrent).  In addition to the standard four top tables, there is also a long communal table for diners to share.  The bar features a few stools and, in the afternoon, is laid with mouth-watering pastries and desserts.

 

The food itself, of course, is the real draw.  I would characterize it as “modern farmhouse bistro” fare, i.e., fresh local produce prepared with a light touch but with intensity and brio.  The menu, which changes daily, reflects a careful balance of comfort, luxury and wholesomeness that I find irresistible.  Everything that walks out of the kitchen looks fresh and exciting.  So far highlights include creamed eggs with roasted mushroom and truffle oil, served with a two-inch thick slab of grilled sourdough.  The chunky house-made bacon hash with poached eggs is a crowd pleaser (also comes in a veggie silver beet (Swiss chard) version).  On our first visit Michel enjoyed a braised beef sandwich that was a sticky, smoky, messy triumph.

 

We have yet to visit the Depot for dinner, but it’s on the list.  I have high hopes!  More info at http://www.danksstreetdepot.com.au/

 

We owe this discovery to Hugh, our neighbour and “food-purveyor-to-the-palates-that-matter,” who sources seafood for the Depot.  Thanks Hugh!

Orpheus Island, Great Barrier Reef, Queensland, Australia

 

It’s been a rough transition back into the old swing of things after our trip to Orpheus Island.  This time last week Michael and I were aboard a seaplane having just touched down on the turquoise waters of Hazard Bay.  Shortly thereafter, we were informed that we would be the only occupants at the resort for the duration of our stay.  That’s right; a staff of 15 to cater exclusively to the two of us.  I don’t think I have to tell you the kind of “musical Twister” and “human chess” scenarios that immediately leapt to mind.  Happily for the Orpheus staff, I lack follow-through and am easily distracted.

 

This was a wonderful vacation and the new benchmark for tropical island getaways as far as I’m concerned.  It was a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of Sydney and, indeed, from people in general.  I suppose not every vacationer would relish the prospect of this kind of isolation, but it was a luxury for me.  I suppose it’s a symptom of advancing age that my idea of great time is to be left alone with a good book in a hammock on the beach.  Add to that scenario the certainty that no one else will already be occupying the aforementioned hammock and I’m a happy camper.  Add to that a nightly seven course degustation menu served on an open air veranda overlooking the water and it’s a miracle I’m not still there.

 

We did a snorkel and three dives in amongst the Palm Islands and I was impressed by the variety and volume of coral we saw.  Diving in parts of the reef protected from the strong currents of the open ocean means you get to see the kind of delicate sea life you don’t always find in pelagic “wall dives” – sea fans, sea feathers, anemones, giant clams, stag horn coral bigger and longer than I’ve ever seen and soft coral of all shapes and sizes draped and rolling uninterrupted over large sections of the reef.  The visibility could have been better and I would have liked to see some larger sea life, but the ultimate success of my diving experience at Orpheus was due in no small measure to the excellent dive masters we had guiding us on our dives and prepping and assembling our gear!  Thank you Matt and Kam!  It was the easiest, most carefree diving I have ever done!

 

And now, a word about the food.  I was very impressed with the quality and variety of the degustation menus.  Given that Orpheus is a 20 minute plane ride from the Queensland coast, I was surprised at the variety of ingredients that were incorporated into our meals.  Some of the produce is even grown on the island – lemons, limes, oranges and passion fruit.  The highlight for me was the seafood, which was of good quality and capably prepared.  However, while I enjoyed the dining on Orpheus, their wine list could use some work in my opinion.  With as much great wine as there is to be found (and cheaply!) in Australia and New Zealand, there is really no excuse for serving mediocre wine.  I also get the impression the list is not updated on a regular basis, which they certainly ought to do.

 

Overall, our stay was wonderfully relaxing and I very much appreciated the unobtrusive attentiveness of all of the Orpheus staff.  I never wanted for anything, but I also didn’t have a lot of conversations with people about how I didn’t want anything.  The resident managers, Aaron and Brigit, and their dauntless comrades did a commendable job of facilitating our vacation without overwhelming us with options which, to my mind, is a recipe for success.

 

Photos at http://tinyurl.com/5v5ub6

Gone Diving – Orpheus Island

 

Michael and I leave tomorrow morning for Orpheus Island on the Great Barrier Reef.  I’ll report back with our findings.

More at http://www.orpheus.com.au/

Outsourcing

This latest contribution from one of our more colorful commentators, Big Bill Berens.  Let it never be said that I’m not doing my part to support unfettered public discourse.  Sadly, I can take credit for none of it, but am seriously considering outsourcing on a more regular basis.

This isn’t bad for a first draft, if I do say so myself.  I sent this in to Nicole a few days ago, whipped it up on Notepad and then just cut/pasted it into an email – I used to work online so it’s easier than it sounds. 

I was rapping freestyle on the iPhone paragraph, just getting warmed up.  Then I feint into the movie talk – which is tricky because I’ve never seen a movie (don’t like sitting down indoors).  The stuff about weather and restaurants I just made up, I’ve never actually been to ‘Astrallia’ or wherever and google didn’t have anything on that continent so I just winged it.  I guess maybe you guys don’t have google yet.  They’ve got just the one van I think, they’ll come around eventually.

Anyway, the part about poker is all true.  Pocket fours suck, it’s like bringing a knife to a gun fight.  I’ve brought knives to gunfights, I know what I’m talking about here – nobody at the gun fight will care about your stupid knives and eventually they’ll take all your chips and you’ll have to shuffle the whole rest of the game.

So ok, that’s it ’til next week.  I can feel a classic Nicole rant coming up!  Topic:  Is Dungeons and Dragons better than everything? 

Good on ya!