Cyrus

It’s been a while since the last post, but I have to say I think it was worth the wait.  Michael and I dined at Cyrus in Healdsburg last night along with two charming dinner companions visiting from Boulder, Colorado.  You know the drill.  Full menu followed by commentary.  Enjoy!  We certainly did!

Those are some happy campers!

~ Cyrus ~

May 17, 2009

Champagne & Caviar
California Select, Farm Raised White Sturgeon with Traditional Accoutrements
Chateau Jean Vesselle “But Rosé – Oeil de Perdrix”, Bouzy, France
~
Canapés
Five Flavors
Salty – Sous Vide Cucumber
Sweet – Guava Mouse with Mint Gelée
Bitter – Grilled Grapefruit
Sour – Sudachi Marshmallow
Umami – Shitake and Sushi Rice Fritter
Vin Gris de Pinot Noir
~
Amuse Bouche
Kampachi Sashimi with Ocean Vegetables
~
Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, Mango
and Hearts of Palm
Riesling, Dönnhoff “Grosses Gewächs Dellchen”, Nahe, Germany 2007
~
Foie Gras Torchon with Tamarind and Dates
Grasberg, Marcel Deiss, Alsace, France 2002
~
Soft Shell Crab with Corn and Scallions, Sauce Billi-Bi
Chardonnay, Rouchiou “River Block”, Russian River Valley 2007
~
Duck Breast with Bok Choy and Asparagus, Sesame- Shao Xing Sauce
Pinot Noir, Littorai “The Haven”, Sonoma Coast 2006
~
Wagyu Beef with Burdock and Shiso, Oxtail Umeshu Consommé
Sagrantino di Montefalco, Paulo Bea “Pagliaro”, Umbria, Italy 2004
~
Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses
Kapcsándy Family Winery “State Lane Vineyard”, Napa Valley 2005
~
Verjus Sorbet, Blood Orange Riesling Soup with Crystallized Picholine Olives
Riesling Spätlese, Robert Weil “Kiedricher Graferberg”, Rheingau, Germany 2006
~
Strawberry Rhubarb Bread Pudding
~
Mignardises
House-made chocolates and candy

Yesterday was a scorcher in the Bay Area and wine country was no exception.  We arrived 20 minutes in advance of our reservation and were promptly shown to a table in the bar to refresh ourselves before dinner.  The Cyrus bar serves a traditional mint julep – crushed ice, frosted silver julep cup and all – and, while I did not partake, it did appear to be particularly thirst quenching on a hot spring night.  The ambiance of the restaurant is refined – as one would expect – but relaxed enough to put one at ease.  Patrons used their normal speaking voices and chuckled to each other without the keen sense of being overheard that sometimes accompanies these fine dining experiences.  A welcome relief.  The more wine I drink, the harder it is to whisper.

The décor is simple, but luxe.  Columns of bone-white lilies atop rigid stems four feet tall were stationed at strategic intervals around the main dining room which was otherwise a calming combination of gold and ivory.  Textured white china and Laguiole knives.  Tables are placed at a comfortable distance from each other – close enough to feel sociable, but far enough apart to feel airy.  The staff was friendly, accommodating and jocular, which is crucial as the wine list is a tome and boasts many hard-to-find and limited release offerings about which our servers had much to say.  I had only a limited sampling of the wine pairings on offer.  None were outstanding, but all were good.  In addition to their standard pairings, the restaurant offers a “Grand” pairing of dinstinguished treasures.  I will certainly have the “Grand” the next time around.

The food was very, very good.  The lobster course was the best executed overall in my opinion, though the soft shell crab was a favorite of the table.  The foie with tamarind reduction and dates was served with miniature oven-warm naan.  Warm bread is always a good bet (even on a hot night).  The wagyu beef was more marbling than meat and a rare treat for that reason.  My favorite dessert component was the plank of picholine olive brittle propped against the verjus sorbet – perfectly crisp, salty and sweet and with just enough give in the flecks of olive to keep it from cracking apart.

Chef Douglas Keane just won the 2009 James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef in the Pacific region.  He is one to watch.  I like that his tasting menus are at most seven courses.  I also celebrate the fact that you can have an entirely vegetarian tasting menu.  I wasn’t brave enough to try it this time out, but I would  be very tempted to go veggie on the next round - particularly in spring.  Diners also have the option of a less daunting five course alternative.  Part of me felt a little disappointed that we only had the two “meat” courses, but most of me was relieved not to relive the labored breathing and “food sweats” that so often follow a 10 or 12 course meal.  I think seven courses is just right.  I was sated after the meal, but not uncomfortably so.  Happily, you’ll also notice that fewer courses translates to lighter bill at the end of the evening. 

It was a meal to remember and, for those of you keeping score at home, on food alone I’d rate it above Tetsuya’s but below The French Laundry.  That said, we got a booking without any trouble at all and it didn’t require a transoceanic voyage, so if you’re after a truly special meal without a lot of fuss and within driving distance, Cyrus has what you’re looking for.

More at http://cyrusrestaurant.com/